Finding a Geocache

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So, how do we go about finding our first Geocache?

First let’s gather all the “things” that will help make our first journey a success.

We will need:

• GPS reciever of your choosing
• Cache page description/instructions, which will include any hints you need should you get stumped and need a little nudge to make the find

Things that are nice to have along that might make things easier, but are not required:

• PDA with cache pages loaded so you don’t have to carry a ream of paper with the cache info printed out
• FRS radios (if you are caching with a partner)
• Flashlight (for night caching)
• Geocaching cards or brochures explaining what Geocaching is in case you come upon someone you need to educate about what you are doing
• Small first aid kit

As a side note, I do know cachers who have found thousands of caches without any of the above, Yes, there are people who Geocache without even a GPS receiver! How they do that, I haven’t a clue, but it is done.

One of the top cachers in the world (over 20,000 finds so far) still uses paper printouts of Mapquest routes to get herself to the cache locations. She never routes herself to a cache with her GPSr.

The first thing we need to do is go to the Geocaching.com website, put in our zip code, and bring up the caches that are closest to us. If you know the latitude and longitude of your house (or wherever you are currently parked), you can enter that and the website will show the caches closest to you.

Look on the upper left side of the homepage and click on “hide and seek a cache” to get to the area where you can input the above information.

The first time you do this, you will be amazed how many caches are “right under your nose”.

For your first cache, it is best to pick a “regular” cache. Those are the ones that have the single little ammo can icon.Once the closest caches are pulled up, click on one to get the information you need.

All caches have difficulty and terrain ratings. It is best for beginners to choose lower rated caches while they are learning. The rating systems range from 1 (least difficult/terrain) to 5 (most difficult/terrain). As an example, a cache with a difficulty of 1 and a terrain rating of 1 means the cache should be very easy to find, probably in plain site (difficulty) and the cache container itself is wheelchair accessible (terrain). Any terrain rating over 1 is not supposed to be wheelchair accessible. Yes, there are many “mobility challenged” people who Geocache. There’s even a website dedicated to what is called “Handicaching”. We will discuss Handicaching in a future blog.

A cache that is rated a 5/5 would mean, in order to get to the cache, (terrain) you would need a special tool, apparatus, or transportation to get to the cache. An example would be a cache that is only accessible by boat, repelling down a cliff, scuba diving, etc.

A difficulty 5 would mean the cache should be very hard to find once you get to the location or you need to do a lot of research in order to even get the correct coordinates to start your quest. An example of this might be a puzzle cache that you would need to work out the answer to clues given on the cache page or a cache container so well camouflaged, that it will be near impossible to find without much pondering.

Once you get into caching you will see that there are many very talented “hiders”. Some really pride themselves on their difficult puzzles and devious containers.

On the cache page you have picked for your first cache, you will need to input the coordinates into your GPSr. There is a button you can click that is right under the numbered coordinates that says “Download to GPS) This is a great shortcut to down loading, especially if you only want to download a few caches to your GPSr.

If you want to input the coordinates (hereafter referred to as coords) by hand, you will need to manually punch in the coords listed on the page into your GPSr. If you do not have a PDA, you can print off “printer friendly” cache pages to take with you on you hunt. There is a button for the “printer friendly” version right under where the coords are.

It is VERY important to THOROUGHLY read all the information on the cache page BEFORE hunting the cache. The information/description is there for a reason. It will generally warn you for things to watch out for, give an interesting history of the cache location, tell you what to stay away from, what size the cache container is, etc. Do not skip reading the cache page. It may come back to bite you. (speaking from experience here, trust me)

Hopefully you have picked a cache that is a Tupperware or ammo can sized box. Caches come in all sizes but this size is the best for starting out. To find out the size of the container before going to find it, look under the cache title on the cache page. There is a line there that says “Size:” with 5 little gray boxes beside it. One of the boxes will be colored in. The bigger the box colored, the bigger the cache container. Also, beside the last box will be the word “micro”, “small”, “regular”, “large”, or “unspecified”.

“Regular” containers are ammo cans and Tupperware sized caches. We will get into the other sizes in future blogs.

Now all you have to do is go out and find it!

With the coords input into your GPSr and your print out or PDA download of the description of the cache in hand, you will need to get yourself to the general location where the cache is hidden. This skill you will have to learn on your own. Just read and study your GPSr instructions to familiarize yourself on how to operate your unit.

Once you are as close as you can get to ground zero, based on the accuracy displayed on your GPSr, just start looking at/in places you think you might (safely) hide a container. If you have looked for a while and can’t find it, read the hint on the cache page (if one has been provided) to give you a nudge in the right direction. Sometimes there is not hint and you just have to use your “mojo” to find it.

Caches do get “muggled” (taken or go missing) from time to time. So, it will be very rare for you to find all the caches that you go after. Then sometimes your “mojo” just ain’t working for you that day.

But on our first hunt, we are going to assume you are successful. You find the cache, now what?

Open the container and you will generally find what cachers call “McToys” and other trinkets.Sometimes there are things in the box that can be of great use, like insect wipes, small first aid kits, and such, but most of the time there are just toys and things. Great if you have kids along.

Also, and this is VERY important, there will be a logbook or logsheet of some sort.

All geocaches, no matter what size MUST have something for you to sign your geo-nickname on.

Proper protocol is to trade up or trade even. You do not have to trade anything. You can just sign your Geocaching nickname into the logbook and that be it. But most peoplemake a trade.

There are things that you DO NOT leave in caches.

• food of any kind (spoils and may draw animals)
• chewing gum (for the dame reason as above)
• knives
• matches
• fireworks
• anything that is not “kid friendly”

This is something to be very conscientious of. Geocaching is a very family friendly activity. Many children cache with their parents. You do not want to put anything in a cache container that a child could get their hands on and hurt themselves with.

After make your trade, signing the logbook, and closing the container back, it is very important to replace the container back EXACTLY where you found it. You would be amazed at how much a container can “migrate”. The cache owner put it in the place they wanted it to be. Try to make sure it is back in that place when you leave.

Congratulations! You’ve just earned your first “smiley”!!!

The above picture is of Itchy finding our first cache “Saving Private Gatormeister” located in Jupiter, FL. You have to climb up into a Banyon tree to retrieve the container from its hidy hole.

In our next blog we will discuss hiding your first cache.

Happy caching!