This is the 26th in a continuing series about our trip through Canada to Alaska
Our caravan has arrived at its 23rd stop in 48 days. We have seen an incredible amount of geography from Washington State through British Columbia and Alaska, with a glimpse of Alberta. This series has focused, not on the scenery, history or wildlife, but on our experiences as RVers taking part in a caravan. There have been dozens of side trips, excursions, cultural talks and events that haven’t been included, but they have definitely contributed to this journey-of-a-lifetime.
We are still finding more RV-related topics to discuss as we enter the final 10 days of our caravan and probably after that, but we’re always interested in what else you want to know about the trip. Please let us know in the Comments Section. And if you missed any of this series, you can see all of it and a few more previous posts at blog.rv.net/author/barry-zander.
THE WEATHER – Can you image the shock if you sat down at a Blackjack table in Las Vegas and were dealt 10 Blackjacks in a row? That’s the thrill that Monique and I have felt over the past six weeks. While we have had dreary, chilly days along the way, rainy nights and travel days, it seems like clouds have parted and the sun came out for every tour and day-long cruise on our route.
As I mentioned in an earlier article, it may be that the Creator of all this beauty wanted us to see it at its best so we could convey our excitement to readers in words and pictures. The weather has just been too awesome.
We aren’t experts on the weather, particularly as it relates to the territories we have covered, but we do know that you probably don’t want to be in Alaska or the Yukon between late September and early May. If you’re very adventurous and think you can defy the odds, forget it. Almost everything RVer need closes for those months. The RV parks drain their systems and pour in a form of antifreeze, lock up their electric system, close the gates and head for more tolerable climates. Most gas stations – and there aren’t many to begin with – do the same. Inns, also. Locals travel is by dogsled, seriously, often over frozen roads and rivers; intercity travel is by float planes or planes that land on ice. Mostly, though, folks up here don’t travel much at all.
Priscilla at an RV gift shop said that she doesn’t go from Valdez to Anchorage when there’s a winter storm. Thompson Pass gets 350 inches of snow a year and up to 800 inches. In Valdez on the south coast, winter temperatures don’t get all that cold, only to minus-20 usually, but there is a constant 25 mile-an-hour wind, gusting up to 80. The school bus in Tok is still picking up kids when it’s minus-73.
When the mercury drops to those levels, car batteries explode and metal cracks. Those were some of the circumstances faced by workers building the Alcan Highway and the TransAlaska Pipeline. When you get up here and see films on those projects, you’ll begin to appreciate the enormity of those tasks. Infrastructure isn’t big on our list of interests. However, seeing the weather conditions they encountered and the faces of those who ”got ‘er dun,” you’ll understand our admiration.
Come to Yukon and Alaska in June, July and August and you should have no problem. Our preparations for the trip included 1) leaving some unnecessary stuff at a son’s house; 2) having the truck and RV checked over by a professional, 3) buying a spare fuel filter, and 4) putting a screen over the front of the car to intercept rocks and bugs. Nothing else. It’s been t-shirt weather for most of our trip, augmented by sweats and jackets when appropriate, like in front of glaciers.
If on your trip to Alaska you find yourself without adequate clothing for an unexpected change in the weather, have no fear. There is a gift shop nearby selling a wide variety of jackets and sweatshirts emblazoned with logos you will want to show off when you return home.
You wouldn’t expect the weather to be the same in Chicago, New Orleans, Denver, Vermont and San Diego on any given day. Alaska has its own variety of weather conditions, from Fairbanks to Skagway (the RV drive-able places). It’s not all cold or pristine clear. Variations in different areas of the coastal regions are caused by ocean currents, glaciers, mountains ranges, elevation and more. As you head into the Interior, like Fairbanks, it’s colder, but in Juneau 800 miles away, things are totally different. Ketchikan in the south enjoys 14 feet of precipitation a year.
Monday’s journey from Tok, Alaska, to Destruction Bay, Yukon Territory, a distance of 225 miles, was among the worst stretches of highway we have every faced – we were told it’s worse than the drive to Chaco Canyon, Arizona, which Monique and I have heard is the worse. Frost heaves, construction, mud, gravel, moose, bears and only a couple of diesel fuel stops stood in our way, but we made it (on fumes). Even experienced RVers in our group reported damage to their rigs.
Looking out over dwafted spruce in a permafrost field &, at right, the Alaska Pipeline makes its way across 799 miles of terrain
The weather for the trip was, drizzle, then beautiful, puffy clouds over the majestic peaks in the distance – and we arrived with the air conditioner on.
The message for today is that if you want to be comfortable during your visit, pick months that offer the best chance of warm weather. Nothing you can do about the rain and low-lying clouds, so focus on temperatures.
Mama Moose and youngster & Mama Bear teaches three offspring the art of salmon fishing
Incidentally, as we get used to the “Land of the Midnight Sun” effect, it’s beginning to get dark for a few hours a night. I guess we’ll get used to seeing stars again in a couple of weeks.
In Destructino Bay, population 30, we encountered "Loose Gravel," a professional-quality band with Loren, our campground host, on the drums
From the “Never-Bored RVers,” We’ll see you on down the road.
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Cathy
Thanks for this blog. We are planning an RV trip to AK and these personal accounts are priceless! I had to comment on this Part since we have driven the Chaco Canyon entrance road. The rough part is only about 13 miles long, not 225!
I wonder just how slow you had to go and how long it took you. We have a short class A and had to go less than 10 mph into Chaco or it sounded like the whole thing would rattle apart. It was worth it. If you are towing a trailer, maybe you don’t hear or heed all that rattling?
Jimmie McElrea
I am missing Part XVI of Our Alaska Trip and would like you to email or repost the blog. I am enjoying your blog tremendously. Thank you
roland lajoie
Of most interest is the toll that the roads are doing to the RV’s ie:tow trailer , 5th wheels , and particular to the motor homes . You have talked of losing windshields etc. ; what other damages have occured to vehicles and how about toads?, are toads being taken along on this trip . We are trying to plan this trip to Alaska and most interested at this point of potential damage to vehicles ; as the writings seem to inticate roads over/all are not very good . Any information you can give would be appreciated . Trying to decide what vehicle to tow / leave somewhere else in storage and how to prepare for what appears to be a bumpy but toll / taking trip .
Thanks for any help you may be .
Roland
Dale Kincaid
Was or is Dubie still making bowls out of Black Spruce Burls at Destruction Bay?
He had a workshop behind the RV office. He was making some beautiful bowls back in 2003 when we went through there with Adventure Caravans.
Bob Wiggs
I have really enjoyed reading your Blog. We drove the ALCAN last year to Alaska and had a BALL. This was our 1st time there and we could not get over all the beautiful scenery we saw. We’ve never been able to see Moose, Bears, Dall Rams on the road. We had such a good time, we’re planning a second trip in 2011 and plan to stay till about mid SEP in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights. Happy Trails Bob.
Kenneth Hospital
Thanks for telling us about your trip . We did this same trip a few years back with a tour and it was great . The only way to see Alaska is by RV . The road to Destruction Bay sounds the same as when we were there bad . Thank for the great storys .
Roger Garner
To Ron Thill’s questions, I would respond: forget about the mosquito stories. They’re no worse than a lot of places in the lower 48. Wind drives them away, so camp on a site that catches the wind. The ‘king of the road’ for this kind of trip is a pickup camper without a toad. The versatility of a truck rig will allow you to do many things you won’t get to do otherwise. Boondocking opportunities are everywhere in Canada and AK, but it takes the clearance of a pickup (preferably 4-wheel drive) to get to many of them. By planning to pitch camp before 4:00 I’ve never had trouble finding hookups. Long daylight hours cause people to drive later, thus waiting too late to find full-service vacancies. When you are in remote areas remember to fuel up when your tank is down to ½. Thanks Barry & Monique for a wonderful travelog.
Ron Thill
We’re thinking about driving to Alaska next summer. I’m surprised you’ve not said much about mosquitoes or no-see-ums. I assumed they’d be a constant harassment throughout much of Alaska. Also, is it necessary to make RV park reservations along the Alcan Highway if one departs early (say by 6 or 7 a.m.) and only travels for 5-7 hours? Are there lots of boon docking sites along the Alcan Highway that would be considered RV friendly – – i.e., reasonably level, plenty of room to get in and out, not too rocky, etc. We won’t be in a caravan, so large boon dockingt sites aren’t a concern. Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us.
Bob Derivan
Stumbled onto your blog and have enjoyed it immensely. We drove to Alaska from Arizona alone last Summer. We did encounter vehicle problems in isolated areas such as The Yukon and it would have been nice to have a caravan to help but we wouldn’t trade the experience for anyplace we’ve been. We spent the whole summer in Moose Pass on the Kenai. You drove through it on the Seward Hyw from Anchorage to Seward. Your blogs have brought back many great memories. We hope to someday do it again. I do agree that anyone who gets the chance to do it, to take it. They won’t be disappointed. Our most exciting experience was on the way home. We were driving North on the George Parks Hyw between Anchorage and Fairbanks and we too had been told chances of seeing Denali were slim. But as we turned the curve at Willow, there she was standing high and proud. We were still 160 mi away but were able to take many gorgeous photos of the Great Mountain. Although we were hoping to visit Denali up close, we were delayed in Wasilla again because of vehicle problems and missed the park closing for the season by one day, that experience enough we will remember for a lifetime. Travel safe.
Lynne schlumpf
Alaska’s best season is winter. The Northern Lights and clear skies and mountains so clear. Quiet, peaceful. No bears. No mosquitoes or no-see-ums up your nose. Just peaceful contemplation.
Lynne
Constance
I lived all over the Northwest Territories and Alaska as a child, and I do not recommend travel in an RV on those roads in the winter. Perhaps a 4-wheel drive Pickup camper or even pulling a small trailer, but not an RV.
The last few years have been mild compared to the years I spend there. Visitors and newbies are often ignorant of conditions, which is how my eyeball fluid got frozen the first year we were there…caused permanent damage to my eye muscles.
Constance
John A. Kerr
In Oct 1973 my family and I were reassigned from Ft Carson, CO, to Ft Wainwright, Fairbanks, AK. We traded our 1969 Winnabago for a 1973 20 ft Winnabago Brave, hooked our Jeep on behind and headed off for the AlCan Highway. We encountered everything from rain to snow to beautiful conditions on our drive up on the dirt/rock road. We encountered no problems with either fuel or RV parking on the trip up. On arrival at Ft Wainwright I learned that my assignment had been changed and I was to report to Ft Richardson, Anchorage, AK where we spent the next 3 years. We utilized our coach year round and learned quickly that you had to have an engine heater, a heated oil dipstick and a battery heater. We were limited to only a few campgrounds during the winter, but during the summer months we encountered no problems. You did learn to come around bends in the road slowly to ensure that moose, bear or caribou were not “lounging” on the warm asphalt pavement. We were never bothered by any animals in the camping areas during the summer or winter, though we did learn to look before we ventured out of the coach.
The weather is extremely unpredictible so you learn to have clothing for all seasons in the coach. A good folding snow shovel got us out of trouble on several occasions. If you are going to go in the winter make sure that you carry plenty of food, water, and I might suggest a set of chains as they may be needed for some of the roads. Also be prepared to encounter roads that are closed for periods of time due to snow.
Go to Alaska, whether by yourself or in a caravan, and experience the beauty of the state. Beauty that you can not find anywhere else in the United States. The summer is of course the ideal time to visit, but I would not rule out fall, winter or spring. Just go prepeared and be ready to encounter weather the likes of which you have never before seen.
Alaska is an adventure and one that I would recommend to anyone.