Hi, everyone! This month, we have a bunch of quick and easy fixes for common RV problems. Check them out, and keep those questions coming! [email protected]
Mark,
I have a 2002 class-A motorhome with large day/night window shades in the living room area. These shades will not stay open, a condition that has developed over the last several months. Can you recommend a fix? Richard.
Hi Richard,
If your shades are the typical ones that use string tensioners, they are easy to adjust. If you look at the wall below the shades, you’ll see a small plastic string mount on either side, where the shade’s guide strings are attached. Most of them look like a little bobbin or spool. What you need to do is increase the tension on those strings. In most cases, you can do this by loosening the screw that secures the mounting spool or bobbin and turning the bobbin to increase the string tension. Start with a small adjustment, and tighten both sides equally. If the blind still slips, increase the tension on those springs until it just stays put. Tighten it only enough to fix the slipping, as over-tightening can lead to rapid string wear.
Mark,
My wife and I are full-timers in a 2006 37-foot Mobile Scout (Sunnybrook) fifth-wheel. When we bought the unit, we had the dealer install slide toppers from Carefree of Colorado. Recently, I noticed one of the toppers sagging, I have reviewed the owner’s manual, but it does not indicate how to adjust the tension on the topper. Can you give us any guidance on how it can be corrected? Thanks, Tony and Lynne.
Hi Tony and Lynne,
While it is possible for you to adjust the spring tension on that awning yourself, I strongly suggest you have someone with proper training and experience do it. In most cases, you have to remove one of the mounting arms and rotate it to increase the spring tension. The problem is that most folks don’t realize how dangerous it can be to lose control of that arm during the adjustment! There is a frightening amount of energy stored in that awning spring, and it can inflict serious injury if you make a mistake. Please have an RV repair shop do it!
Mark,
Thanks for the great info! We plan to travel over about 40 miles of a gravel/dirt road this summer and wanted your thoughts on reducing the tire pressure on our small class-C motorhome for that part of the trip to get a smoother ride and help with any mud along the way. I normally have 60 psi on all six tires (80 psi max), so I would reduce that while driving 35 mph or less, then using my portable air pump to go back to 60 psi when back on pavement. Your ideas on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Richard
Hi Richard,
While I have occasionally “aired down” when driving my truck in soft sand or on a beach, that was primarily to increase traction. Driving your RV with reduced tire pressure, even at less than 35 mph, is not a good idea. Most RV tires are loaded very heavily and need the proper air pressure to handle that load. Running tires under-inflated affects their handling, their ability to deflect road hazards, and their ability to stay on the rim when cornering. In dual wheel sets, lower air pressure increases sidewall bulge, which can lead to the tires touching. That’s a bad thing. My suggestion is to leave the tires at the correct inflation pressure and just slow down to reduce the rattles and bumps. Driving slowly will also help prevent rock impact and gravel “erosion” damage to under-vehicle parts and accessories.
Hi Mark,
Is there a way to totally drain the fresh-water tank? I’ve opened all the valves but usually have a couple of inches of water left in the tank. I’m assuming what doesn’t drain out gets stale. I purchased a pump with a hose that I stick down the water inlet pipe and can get some water out that way, but it still leaves quite a bit of water in the tank. One thing I haven’t tried is to park the trailer on an incline so most of the water runs to the side of the tank with the outlets. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Robert
Hi Robert,
You have already hit on the answer! Figure out which side of the tank has the drain hose connection, then use a couple of leveling blocks under the tires to raise the RV on the side opposite the tank drain. It only takes a little bit of slope to encourage all the water to exit the tank. If you have a large motorhome with hydraulic levelers, just raise the correct side of the coach a little to encourage draining. This also works well to improve the way your holding tanks drain at a dump station.
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Mark,
The steps on my class-A motorhome sound like they are cycling back and forth and move for a half inch. Sometimes they will come out, then retract. On some occasions, they come out and stay. They are unpredictable. What can I do to solve the problem? Thank you, Larry
Hi Larry,
Most of the automatic step mechanisms use a pushbutton door switch that signals the step controller when the door opens or closes. These switches do wear out over time, and most erratic step behavior can be traced to a failing door switch. The problem can also be caused by damaged wiring going to that switch or by a poor or intermittent ground. The door switch, usually located in the door jamb, is easy to remove and inspect. If it appears wobbly or worn, replace it. If the switch is OK, crawl under the rig and inspect the ground strap that runs from the metal frame of the step assembly to the vehicle frame or other ground point. If this cable is loose or missing, it can cause the steps to operate erratically. If you still have the problem, it could be a wiring harness problem, or the “brain” for the steps may be getting senile. The majority of these steps are made by Kwikee and parts are readily available. See www.powergearus.com/products/steps for more info, troubleshooting guides and parts.
Pat Hudson
curved, Sharpe, and a thimble to push with. tied each stitch off as I went, had a pad to kneel on as well, took about a halve hour.
Pat Hudson
Pat Hudson
You might want to check if one is GFI push the reset in the center of it and all three should become powered up. GFI are usually located in bathroom or an out side outlet as well
Sharon Ewing
Pat Hudson What kind of needle did you use? Blunt end, curved? Haven't looked at it real close but that is probably the best alternative to removing it. Thanks.
Pat Hudson
hi our carpet binding on our slide carpet pulled off about 15" I used nylon thread and hand sewed it back on top then trimmed off where the frayed end stuck out.It is looking good the edge is holding and my wife is happy. $3.95 for the thread.
Pat Hudson
hi our carpet binding on our slide carpet pulled off about 15" I used nylon thread and hand sewed it back on top then trimmed off where the frayed end stuck out.It is looking good the edge is holding and my wife is happy. $3.95 for the thread.
Sharon Ewing
Was wondering if anyone has or had the carpet binding on the slide carpet come loose and if so how did you fix? Was advised by repair shop that carpet would have to be taken up so it could be re-sewn, and I don't find that as being an option for me. Hot glue, fabric glue, or duct tape? Any suggestions would be appreciated. ('08 Cruiser 5th – new to me and had only been pulled app. 3000 miles when we got about 8 mo. ago.)
Anonymous
Some chassis with the Ford 6.6L V-10 have a gas filter mounted under the vehicle in the frame. If fuel delivery pressure is too low, it could also be caused from this filter not being changed regularly (or maybe never!)
Anonymous
First of all, you should never switch out tires like you did on a drive axle. Running tires with a different diameter causes the differential to spin constantly, increases wear on the gearing and can overheat the gear lubricant. This was not the cause of the tire failure however. Tire blowouts are caused from too low of air pressure in the tire. Since you stated the tires are going bald, I would suspect they are being overloaded. Check the weight rating on the side of the tires and then have your RV weighed on a certified scale. I might also suspect this could happen due to a bent drive axle housing which can be determined by getting an axle alignment check done.
William L. Hanson
Sandy Marr I sealed around the one window in question so I hope I fix3d it. My escape/vent over my bed was leaking also and I sealed around it and it is fixed.
Sandy Jaeger
Hello Mark we have a 2006 Winnabago Voyage and have just started full timeing since December 2013 and now its amazing how things are starting to go bad. we have three outlets on the same side of rv that just quit working . we checked fuses can we change them with no issues of electrical problems?
Ray Powell
You might want to also check your supply side.If you have a 50 amp service there are actually two separate 110 volt circuits coming into you RV. This link will take you to a well written and pictorial description of how to check and make sure whether the problem is in your RV or in your supply. http://www.cedarcreekrvownersclub.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1336
Sandy Marr
Had the same problem in our travel trailer, had to have window seal replaced. Dealer did a vacuum test on the whole unit, found 4 others also leaked although had not yet presented any visible damage, we had them done as well. Total cost, $2600, including cost to replace damaged carpeting.
Jon DeWitt
Sounds more like a fuel pump problem to me. Had same problem with mine and had to replace mine.
William L. Hanson
Hi I have never semt in a question so I hope you receive it ok? I have a leak somewhere near the top right window. I have a truck camper. The wall under the window has some water drops on it but the floor(carpet) against that wall is wet, been leaking a while help?
Anonymous
Hi Ben, It sounds like a problem with the throttle by-pass valve. Have that checked out at a shop. It controls the amount of air needed to maintain your idle speed.
Anonymous
I have worked in the heavy truck industry for 40 years, and on-board tire pressure systems are used in many off-road situations with loads exceeding gross weights of 160,000 pounds. It would be OK for Richard to drop his tire pressure by 25 to 30%, as long as he upped it before driving on the highway again.
Just my opinion, Norman Gunderson, Kamloops, BC, Canada
David Arrowsmith
Hello Mark–We recently returned home to B.C., Canada from a 2 month stay in So. California in our 2002 BIGFOOT class C 29 foot model. We had a tire blowout on passenger rear inside tire. At dealers, we bought 2 new tires installed on front—then front tires put on where tire had blown (should mention that the outside tire had gone completely bald at same time of the blowout). Got on our way again. On our way home another tire blowout—this time , another blowout on passenger inside tire and again, the outside tire was bald..Bought 2 new tires put on passenger rear side. So, at this point in time, the only tires that we have had no problems with are the drivers side rear in and out tires. I should mention that all the tires were the same brand, put on at the same time, all had the same tire pressure that I checked before we left on our trip south and the drivers side rear still look like new tires.The new tires on front and passenger rear still look great. We met a couple on our way home with exactly same vehicle and they told us that they have the same problem–the passenger rear tires heat up way more than any of the other tires on the vehicle..I called the local Bigfoot dealer and explained the whole situation –was supposed to get a call-back but still waiting for over a month now… The Bigfoot is on a Ford E-450 frame and the tires are WILD COUNTRY—hope I have included all info—THANKS Mark for all the great info you give us RV folks!!!!!!Dave Arrowsmith., Armstrong, B.C., CANADA.
Joseph Martin
Hello, I would have you fuel pressure checked,it sounds like a pressure regulator or maybe just cracked vacum lines,check those closley as cracks cause leaks and there age is about time to go .
Ben Erna Falk
WE have a Commander 2002 by Triple E, with a V-10 Ford engine , which sometimes takes numerous starts to keep the engine running.When starting , it will fire immediately, then run for 2 seconds and then stall again . I have tried various starting methods,ie pumping the gas pedal but the most effective is to depress the gas pedal , just a we bit, hold it there, and when the engine fires , pump it considerably to keep it running . I should not have to do that tho, and it sometimes results in racing a cold engine which I do not like .
Any advice ?
Thankyou
Ben