By Bob Difley
The temperature hit 113 degrees in Los Angeles this fall, an all time record. In northern California, the temperature topped out at 100 degrees in the coastal surfing town of Santa Cruz, breaking the all time record of 99. The Northeast sweltered, breaking heat records. It seems like a silly time to be talking about heading south to escape winter’s bone-numbing cold, blinding blizzards, endless gray skies, and altogether foul weather.
But global warming or not, snowbird season will arrive, and with it the frantic preparations and urgent scramble south with dark gray storm clouds building in the rear view mirror. If you are planning to spend a few months boondocking in the deserts this season, it is not too early to start planning.
You may find the following tips helpful as well as serving as a partial check list before you set out.
- Take a hammer to that piggy bank you’ve been saving your spare change in and buy solar panels. Most of the desert is wide open to the sky and you get a full day’s worth of charging—even with the shorter days. Even a single panel will provide enough power to run some of your systems, decreasing the amount of generator run time.
- Stay warm on chilly desert evenings with a catalytic heater, which runs on propane, and since it has no fan draws no electricity. Your built in forced air heater will quickly drain your batteries while the propane heater will heat your rig for pennies an hour.
- Assemble a desert day pack, for hiking, biking, or just sightseeing, consisting of sunscreen, a floppy brimmed sun hat, sunglasses, refillable water bottle, energy bars (i.e. Clif bars), stuff-bag nylon windbreaker, and a small first aid kit.
- Stock your bookshelf with a selection of field guide books: deserts (such as Audubon’s Deserts , southwestern wildflowers, western or local regional bird book, desert wildlife (though the Audubon book has a wildlife, bird, and wildflower section), desert plants, and a regional or state tour book like Lonely Planet or Moon guides. Mike and Terri Church’s Southwest Camping Destinations lists all the campgrounds and related information for the southwest. Ed Abbey’s Desert Solitaire is a good read also.
- Arizona State Parks stay full during the height of the winter and fill early in the day, so if you will be using one and arriving after noon or sometimes earlier, check first whether they have overflow camping for the first night, then into a campsite on the second night as they do in Lake Havasu State Park. Otherwise you may be stuck without a campsite as the sun sinks over the yardarm.
- Carry a Jerry jug or two or and inflatable water bladder for extra drinking water. Pour or pump into your water tank when needed.
- If you plan on arriving while it is still hot or staying into April or beyond when it heats up again, buy windshield and side window sun screens to keep the inside of your RV cooler.
- Buy a dump cap and fittings that will enable you to connect a common garden so that you can drain your gray water off into a hole or onto a thirsty bush, keeping your gray tank from filling up to fast and forcing you to drive off to dump.
- Wear sturdy sided walking shoes or hiking boots when off trail to protect your ankles from cactus thorns and rattlesnake strikes (I’m kidding about the snakes—they hibernate all winter, as do scorpions and Gila monsters).
- Leave your ear plugs at home or you won’t hear the quiet–or the coyote serenade. And turn off your porch light if you want to see the spectacular Milky Way, as clear and sparkling as you ever imagined when seen through the clear, humidity free desert air.
If you have any money left over after prepping for your trip, you might also consider my desert ebook, Snowbird Guide to Boonndocking in the Southwestern Deserts. My other ebooks, including BOONDOCKING: Finding the Perfect Campsite on America’s Public Lands, and additional RVing tips can be found on my website, Healthy RV Lifestyle.com
Jim G
Sorry Proyham but Carbon MONOXIDE (CO) is NOT heavier than air but almost the same density if anything it is lighter. Carbon DIOXIDE (CO2) which is what we exhale and is also a component of combustion is slightly heavier. I speak from professional experience, having spent 32 years as an Occupational Safety/Health professional, often people get the two confused so it isunderstandable. Regardless, here is a link to clarify http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03364.htm.
I investigated way too many situations where propane powered heaters caused adverse health effects, as my earlier post stated these symptoms are aggravated for individuals with certain health condtions, such as cardiac and respiratory ailments such as COPD. Perhaps an RV is not air-tight but as the saying goes, it only takes a little (or something like that) Better to be safe than sorry, or worse in my opinion.
Bob Difley
to proyham “Re catalytic heater use in confined spaces”
Fulltimer Derek Gore has done a lot of research, backed up with substantiation, on heaters, including forced air, catalytic, and open flame. You can read the results of his findings here: http://home.earthlink.net/~derekgore/rvroadiervfulltimingwhatisitreallylike/id110.html
proyham
Re catalytic heater use in confined spaces; keep in mind that carbon monoxide is heavier than air, and even if you had a window open that was higher than where you sleep, it is possible that CO could replace the oxygenated air before the fresh air could get in to help you, strong drafts notwithstanding.
Quite a few boaters have died using catalytic heaters because of this.
My understanding is that even an incredibly small amount of carbon monoxide will kill you, quickly, whereas c.dioxide will make you drowsy, sick and then kill you, if the monoxide hasn’t done it first.
Camping in a tent would obviously be quite a different matter.
Bob Difley
To Ron Bunge: I forgot to add that the rules you link to refer to camping in an LTVA, not on open BLM land. And the penalty states that you MAY receive a citation. I would guess that that leaves a lot open to the ranger’s personal attitude and the severity of the dumping episode–unless I receive more clear definitions from the BLM.
Bob Difley
Jon wrote regarding catalytic heaters: “Sorry but I think they would be way too dangerous just to save a little money! Not worth taking a chance for. You would not burn charcoal to heat with! How much of an opening is enough?”
An unnamed official at an unnamed producer of catalytic heaters, though he stated he could not go on the record, said that today’s RVs are so leaky that you wouldn’t even have to open a window to produce enough air to prevent carbon monoxide problems with today’s catalytic heaters. But, I always slept with a window slightly open–mostly more than slightly open–because I like fresh air to the stuffiness of a completely closed up RV, so it never was a question with me. However, if you are nervous about it, don’t buy a catalytic heater. For me it was a great piece of equipment that I wouldn’t think of camping without for its benefits.
Bob Difley
To Ron Bunge re: dumping gray water in a hole in the ground or on a bush.
On September 19th I sent the following email to the BLM:
“I write blogs and magazine articles and teach classes to users of recreation vehicles (RV) on camping in the desert without hookups (boondocking or dry/camping) that have raised questions, for some of which I cannot find a definitive answer. I have always advised that if an RVer cleaned food particles from dishes and utensils before washing, and used biodegradable soaps, the resultant “gray” water could be safely dumped on plants or into a freshly dug hole. Could you please clear up the following questions about camping on BLM land so that I may post to my readers and students:
Are RVers permitted to dump their gray water tanks into a hole dug in the ground or on a plant or bush?
Are tenters or other non-RV campers permitted to do the same?
Are RVers permitted to run a garden hose drain from their gray tank to a hole or plant?
Can RVers throw dishwater from a dish pan onto plants or in a hole?
If none of the above are permitted, would you please cite the pertinent rule text and location.
If illegal, what is the fine?
Who might I contact for further information or clarification?
Thank you. Bob”
On the 21st I received the following reply:
“Dear Mr. Difley, we have received your request and in order to properly
answer your questions are consulting with our field offices to determine if
there are any areas that have special restrictions/conditions in place. We
will respond to your request once we can compile the responses. Thank you
for your interest in BLM public lands.
Carrie Templin
Public Affairs Specialist
Bureau of Land Management”
As of today (Oct. 2nd) I have had no further response. When I do, it will become a new post as well as an addition to this thread.
I might add that at the BLM office in Lake Havasu City, Arizona, I asked a ranger similar questions. His response was that campers without holding tanks (tenters, car campers, etc.) could dump their gray water but RVs with holding tanks could not, simply because they had a place to hold the gray water. But the reference generally applied to RVers simply opening their dump valve and dumping their tank on the ground. He also said he hadn’t cited anyone for this offense. I still think that it is a question without a legal, definitive, or enforcible answer and hope that the BLM will provide some guidelines, knowing that I will publish what they say. If you are nervous about the gray water issue, do as Ron suggests and only dump into an approved dump station.
Jim G
GaryM – thanks for the advice and tip, it sounds like a cost effective way to go with much less strain and hassle. Safe travels!
GaryM
Jim G – I bought a spare water pump just like the one in my 5th wheel. I swiped my wifes small wood cutting board (5×12), it has a hand grip on it, and I attached it to that. I hooked it up so I can attach right to the batteries but you could just put an electrical plug in on it. I have a stuff bag with all the hoses and “stuff” I need. I just set the Jerry Jug on the ground next to the trailer, attach the battteries and insert the hose the jug, attach the other hose to the fill connection on the trailer and pump away.
The bonus is that if the original pump quits, I have a spare to replace it with. Total cost was about $80 – $85. I needed to buy a switch, a little appropriate wire and a hose I could cut up.
It works great and I have to admit that lifting the full Jerry jug for a gravity feed is getting too hard to do.
Jim G
I have carried extra water when dry camping but have not been too successful at trying to pour the water into the on-board tank, even when using a flexible funnel. Not only is it heavy to lift a 4-5 gallon jug but often spill most over myself and the ground doing so. The fresh water inlet is about waist high so a gravity method is not feasible. Bob, you mention pumping the water which I would expect is much easier so I would be interested in learning about how that could be done, what type of pump and a description of the technique/configuration of hoses, etc..
Also, re: Catalytic heaters; Keeping a window slightly open is essential but I would also recommend having a carbon monoxide monitor meter which would alarm if dangerous levels of CO build up during sleeping hours. For most healthy adults a fairly low level of 10 parts per million, ppm, can cause severe headaches or nausea but for those who have heart disease or COPD (emphysema) the health effects at low levels can be much more serious. Personally I would not recommend using a catalytic heater if serious health conditions exist.
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Ron Bunge
RE: Buy a dump cap and fittings that will enable you to connect a common garden so that you can drain your gray water off into a hole or onto a thirsty bush, keeping your gray tank from filling up to fast and forcing you to drive off to dump.
This is the second time Bob… you have posted to just dump your gray water in a hole in the desert. It is against BLM regulations to do that. If caught the fine is huge and will get you banned from other BLM areas.
You want to promote boondocking but if the advice you put forward is incorrect you should stop posting in your RV.net blog.
If you think about it gray water is full of chemicals and cooking grease. It might be better to dump black down a hole as at least that is natural.
From the BLM web site.
http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ca/pdf/elcentro.Par.98134.File.dat/LTVA_Supp_Rules.pdf
Rule 16. Dumping
Do not dump sewage, gray water, or garbage on the ground. This includes motor oil and any other waste products.
Federal, State, and county sanitation laws and county ordinance specifically prohibit these practices. Sanitary dump
station locations are shown in the LTVA brochure. You must have an LTVA permit for dumping within all LTVA campgrounds.
Penalties
Under 43 CFR 2932.56(b), if you knowingly and willfully violate or fail to comply with any of the supplementary rules provided in this notice, BLM will revoke your LTVA permit. You may also be subject to issuance of a citation and/or arrest with a fine under 18 U.S.C. 3571 and/or imprisonment under 18 U.S.C. 3581, and the Federal Land Policy and Management Act of 1976 (43 U.S.C. 1733(a)).
Jon
Sorry but I think they would be way too dangerous just to save a little money! Not worth taking a chance for. You would not burn charcoal to heat with! How much of an opening is enough?
Dusty
And….if you are going hiking in the desert (or anywhere else for that mater) don’t do like the 64 year old hiker they just pulled out of the 29 Palms area. He was lost for 6 days “in an area he knows”. Carry a cheap GPS, even a cheap map unit can save your life.
Bob Difley
Pat – Here is a link to an article I wrote for a magazine on catalytic heaters. They are safe, as long as you don’t run them in an air tight space where the carbon monoxide could build up. Leaving a window open–even just a crack–solves that.
http://healthyrvlifestyle.com/catalytic_heaters.html
Pat the fisherman
Regarding the recommendaiton of catalytic heaters, it’s been a long time since I used one and they may well be different now. But the old ones were a real hazard if used in an enclosed space–I think the problem was carbon dixode poisoning but it might be carbon monoxide. I can’t remember which.
Hopefully that’s changed but maybe someone can post what’s safe and what isn’t.
Thanks.