Howdy !!
Ok you boondocking, wrought traveling, dune busting freaks – you’ve decided to buy the 5th wheel trailer of your dreams, the one that you can pull with your new 4X4 pickup truck. Thoughts of going up into the hills away from the crowds in the campgrounds flow through your mind until your brain hears the sales person saying something about having to flip your axles on the trailer before you can pull it with your truck. “What’s an Axle Flip?” you ask. The sales man explains that your truck is 51 inches high at the top of the bed side rails. The trailer neck is only 52 inches high to the bottom of the neck, which means that the trailer has to be raised by about 4 inches to keep the neck of the trailer from resting on the bed of the truck – an unhappy experience !
Axle flips are becoming more and more common as 4-wheel drive trucks are used to pull fifth wheel trailers. The axle normally rides on springs which are located below the axle and held by a mounting plate called a spring perch. Because trailer axles have a pre-stress curve built into them they can only be installed in one direction. This means that to raise the trailer a new spring perch must be welded to the top of the axle and the spring re-installed above the axle. This will raise the trailer body between 4 and 6 inches from the stock height.
The Job – Lots of safety stuff here ! Have a buddy stay with you while doing the work, use good jacks and jack stands and make sure the trailer can’t move while everything is disconnected from under it. It is crucial to think safe before you touch a single thing !! If there are ANY questions in your mind about how to do this job take it to a pro ! Now that I’ve scared the dickens outta ya let’s get started.
While the wheels are on the ground, loosen the lug nuts by a half turn. Now use a floor jack to raise the right rear of the trailer enough so that all the wheels clear the ground on that side. Place jack stands under the frame of the trailer to support the trailer and then repeat the process on the left rear of the trailer. Make sure that the jack stands are rated at or above the weight of the trailer !
Remove all the wheels from the axles. The brake wires are now exposed behind the brake hub. If they are connected with twist nuts simply unscrew them and separate the wires. If they are crimped together, cut the wires to separate them. Remember to mark the wires so that they can be reconnected the same way when we get to putting things back together.
The axles are then unbolted from the spring pad and the U-bolts are removed. Remove the spring pad from the opposite side of the trailer the same as the first. At this point the axle is being supported at both ends by the springs. Place the floor jack under the center of the axle to be removed and raise the axle slightly above the springs. Now remove the center shackle bolt from the springs on both sides and using the floor jack, slide the axle out from under the springs and lay the axle on the ground. At this point you can re-attach the shackle bolts to the springs. Now repeat the process with the other axles until all are on the ground.
Spring perches can be purchased from RV and trailer supply stores. You will need to tell the folks there the diameter of the axles and the height of the perch. If there is any doubt as to the size you need simply measure the old ones and order the same size.
Place the axles with the old spring perch pointed down and clamp the new ones to the top of the axle. Ensure that the new ones are directly over the old by using a straightedge or a square. Next measure the height of the ends to make sure that the perch is even on the axle. Use a hammer to lightly tap the perches into place. Now that the perches are clamped and aligned we can do the welding. Remember that this is where the entire load of the trailer on the axles is being carried as you go down the road so the welding must be first class. If there is any doubt, have the welding done by a pro after you have removed the axles from the trailer. Another thing is the alignment of the perches, they must be even to each other on the axle so when the springs and trailer are back on them the whole critter doesn’t go down the road sideways.
Now, using the floor jack, slide the axles under the springs. The new spring perch should be facing up. Adjust the axles so the new perch is centered under the spring in the same location as the original. Re-attach the spring pad and U-bolts to the axle. Repeat this process for each axle. Now reconnect the brake wires for each wheel. If wire nuts were used on the brake wires you may want to consider using crimp connectors. They produce a better water proof seal and provide a better mechanical connection.
This is also a good time to check the condition of the brake shoes and bearings before replacing the wheels on the brake hubs.
Use the jack to raise the right rear of the trailer and remove the jack stand on that side. Lower the trailer back onto the wheels and repeat the process on the left side of the trailer. Use a ruler to measure the height of the rear and front edges of the trailer to make sure that it is level. Now measure the height of the pin-box to see if it is high enough to clear the top of the truck’s bed. Ideally there should be between 4 and 6 inches of clearance between the bottom of the trailer neck and the bed of the truck.
There are a few things to check now. The umbilical cable for the trailer lights, brakes and power may be a bit too short. Your options are to relocate the receptacle or put on a longer cable. The trailer will tow a bit differently now that it has been raised and it will brake differently. Take it out to an empty parking lot, or open area, and practice making turns and stops with it until you feel confident enough to get out in traffic with it. After you have towed the trailer for about 50 miles check the u-bolts and spring shackle bolts to make sure that they haven’t loosened. Also check the wheel lug nuts. Repeat this process at 100, 200 and 500 miles just to be safe and sure.
Having a flipped-axle trailer will also provide you with extra benefits, like increased ground clearance so that you can try some of those back country roads that prevent others from being able to follow. Yee Hawww !!
Later – –
The Old Ranger
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Asking questions are in fact fastidious thing if you
are not understanding anything entirely, however this piece of writing
gives fastidious understanding even.
Andrew
I think some of you guys are missing the point. Almost all trailer axles over 3000 lbs or so are cambered. Camber is the difference from the centerpoint of the vehicle to the top of the tire and the bottom of the tire. When an axle is cambered, if you look underneath your trailer, the axle will have a bow in it so the center is higher. this gives the axle an arch, which makes it strong, and also gives it some deflection with the trailer is loaded up so the tires won’t camber in and rub on the frame as the axle flexes. You can unbolt the axle and turn it around horiztonally so that the left and right sides are switched, but it is still going to be cambered with the bow up. If you flip the axle so that the spring pad is now on top of the spring (most commonly called a spring over covnersion), the bow is going to be in the wrong direction, so the wheels will be cambered in to start with, and the camber will get more and more negative camber as the axle deflects. And because the axle is bowed in the wrong direction for strength, it will bow more under less weight. This will ultimately reduce the strength of the axle, so if you had 7k axles before you might have axles that will only safely handle 4 or 5k afterwards. Just exactly how much I can’t tell you. You can get away with flipping the axle over only on non cambered axles, usually found only on trailers under 3000 lbs but even then many have cambered axles. If your axle is cambered you have to do as the article says and weld new perches on the top of the axle to keep the bow in the axle properly oriented.
Additionally you ALWAYS need to use new U bolts, even if the old ones are on a brand new trailer. U bolt threads are rolled, not cut, and they deform as the nut is threaded onto them. Because of this, reused U bolts can NEVER be tightened to hold the correct amount of torque on the center of the spring. Without the U bolt properly torqued on the center of the spring, the spring will flex at the center pin, which it is NOT designed to do. The center pin area is the weakest part of the spring. This will eventually break the spring, which can lead to loss of property and life.
Other than that, good write up.
Ray
I’m interested in the answer to the ? from Rick on April 29th ,2011. I am going to do the same thing I want to lift my tent trailer by doing the axel flip so I can put taller tires on it
RICK
I am new to the trailer world so bare with me, however i am starting with a tent trailer and hate the 13″ wheels. i cant however get a larger tire in the hole so i was wondering after we calculated the offset of the rim and the size of tire could we essentially put a slightly larger tire on for road use compared to the go cart ones if we flip our axels to the lower side of the spring?
Larry
I have pulled my 40ft. 5er for 6 years with my MDT on fliped axles, which was done as this article states, moved my 5er up 6ins. no problems, the best part after doing this is I can move quite well under my 5er to do tank and electic work.
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ben suleski
hello
I understand what you are saying with the axle flip, my queation; what could the consenquences be if the axle was just rolled over without the correct flip procedure.
I had flipped my axles, the decided to look up how to do it the proper way.
Old Ranger
Howdy !
Let me start with Dave’s question. You could do all that you say, but why?? There are two reasons to simply flip the axel. The first is cost. a flip only takes a couple of hours of shop time. If you do it your way it’s going to be al least 7hours or more work of shop labor costs. The second reason is that because your changing the allinment in relation to the sping mounting points you will need to have an alligment done.
Now for Allen. You can flip the axel on almost all leaf-spring suspension vheicles and trailers. I prefer to have it done in a welding shop. Thats normally quicker and cheaper plus you get a better weld job then most RV shops can do.
As an added note: Leave the old spring mount on the axel, it makes a dandy rock guard for the axel!
Later – –
The Old Ranger
Allen
I would like to flip my axel on my 26 ft camper 2003 model. can this be done . its just to low wildwood camper
dave
why cant u roll the axle upside down, turn it around ,and switch the brakes back to the side they came from,cause the 4 holes on the axle for brakes would be the same grind the little tit off the axle for backingplate
no welding, no aligning, just a little wiring and maybe new ubolts
michael
will this work on a bumper pull also????
Everett
Thanks for the answer and the information. I did not know that about the axil. Never get to old to learn, hehehehe
Everett
Mike Steffen
Howdy !
Not a “dumb question” at all ! Reckon I shudda explained a bit more. Bob is correct, most trailer axels are bent – or bowed – to help absorbe the weight load of the trailer.
The second reason is that if you look at the spring mounts they are welded to the axel and that’s why the axel does not spin when put under extream braking, so the only way to get the springs to the top of the axel without putting new ones on is to spin the axel around and turn it, and that puts the brakes on backwards – and they only provide braking force when the magnet moves in the proper direction so mount them backwards and ya just don’t stop !
Hope that helps – –
Later – –
Mike, The Old Ranger
bob
Everett,
I belive that the axil is pre stressed and is not Straight from the beginning. They are made that way and intended to mount the same way top or bottom of the spring.. bob
Everett
Hello to the RANGER
I have a dumb question (I think). Why can’t you just turn the axil over and reattach the springs?
5th wheel camper
Everett