To Grease Is To Smear~We Lubricate
Fifty years ago that is what my father hammered into my head at the family owned garage. In his mind the top technician in our shop was the guy that got most of the lube and oil changes that rolled through the shops door. Dad’s reasoning was that the most important job that we did for a customer was to do the periodic lube, oil, and filter jobs. Today, bottom line management with its ideas that jobs in a shop can be broken down into skill levels meaning that a monkey can do a lube, oil, and filter change saving the skilled worker for the computer work is flawed. My fathers reasoning was that when the car was on the lift being lubed that the person doing the job should be skilled enough to spot a loose tie rod end that moved when the grease pressure was applied or other like problems. He felt that we owed the customer that service and the report that the underside of the vehicle is OK or that there are some things that you should consider in the future, or that there is a dangerous condition that needs attention. The entry level worker does not have this skill.
As a result I have taken to crawling under all of my own vehicles including Rover the DP. The tools required include a grease gun. I use a pistol grip gun that is loaded with a cartridge. However as age goes up (I am in my mid seventies) the effects of arthritis are becoming a factor and I might just break down and get one of the battery powered guns that sells for around a hundred bucks. You will need a supply of rags, ground cover, and a good light. For ground cover I have a peice of plywood, about 4 foot square, that I slide under the area that I am working on. I some times use a creeper and some times not.
There are several things that need to be said. First before you even pick up the grease gun, clean the fittings completely. If you do not the grease gun adaptor may not seat on the fitting. Second if you force the lubricant in without cleaning the fitting you will forcing dirt into the joint to be lubricated. That will wear the joint out canceling out your good work and intentions.
Now, to the amount of lubricant to use. Items like ball joints and tie rod ends are protected by rubber boots. These are to be lubricated until lubricant is just seen sneaking out between the boot and the joint. Just a little hint. Over lubricating these boot covered joints can damage the boot so that it will not seal the water and road contamination out when driving down the highway.
Well now we have set the stage and next week we look at what needs to be lubricated on a chassis and what does not. Till then, keep camping.
Brad