Unfortunately, if you are going to print the images on your ink jet printer, use an inexpensive lab that doesn’t “spot” prints, or post the images electronically, the dust spots will show. What’s more, while the dust in a film camera often clears when the film is advanced, nothing moves in a camera with a digital sensor; once it is there, it stays.
If you want to check your sensor for dust, find an evenly lighted surface, switch your camera to aperture priority & stop the lens to the smallest f stop (for example f: 22) & take a picture. It does not need to be in focus, but it should be properly exposed. You probably will not be able to see the dust spots using your camera’s LCD unless you highly magnify the image, but if you download it to your computer & look at a full sized image, dust spots become obvious. If your editing software lets you “equalize” the image (in Photoshop or Photoshop Elements Image>Adjustments>Equalize) use that to enhance the dust. One point – be sure to grab the image in your editor & wiggle it around. You don’t want to try to remove dust spots that are not on the sensor but on the monitor!
The manufacturers of DSLRs have attacked the problem of sensor dust a couple of ways. Many cameras let you record a “dust off” image. You use the same technique described above to shoot an image of the dust on your sensor & use your camera’s menus to save it as a “dust off” image. This can be used to eliminate the dust from later images. Newer cameras, particularly those that use in-camera vibration reduction or image stabilization add sensor shakers, that is the ability to rapidly shake the sensor to remove dust. This works for most dust, but sooner or later you are going to end up with “sticky” dust that does not shake off.
So, what do you do if you find dust that doesn’t shake off?
I’ll cover some of the procedures available to the photographer next week.