Hi, all:
In this month’s column, we’ll cover some general questions on RVing and problem solving. I hope you are enjoying the final glorious fall RVing days before winter truly sets in! Please keep those questions coming! MMW@escapees.com
Mark
I have an on board generator to run the electricity in my Winnebago Vista 21b so I can keep the refrigerator going with a small penalty of gasoline. Question: You stress that it’s important to keep the refrigerator level. Will it stay level enough while driving to maintain the refrigerator in good working order? Is there a way to level a poorly installed refrigerator? Thank you. Mike
Hi Mike
While you are driving, there is enough random motion to keep the fridge happy, with one possible exception: if you are on a really long, steep grade. However, for the most part you’ll be fine running the fridge on AC while you drive. Just be sure to turn it off if you stop and the RV is off level, like at a rest stop or roadside pullout. A severely off level fridge that is running can be damaged in as little as 15 minutes! A possible option for you is to install an inverter to run that fridge while you drive. That way you won’t need to run the generator. A 1000W inverter would be adequate for the job, and it will also allow you to run things like TVs, laptops, cell chargers, and other AC devices when dry camping, without lighting off the generator. While driving, the motorhome alternator will normally be able to keep up with the load drawn by the inverter. It’s something to think about, anyway.
To determine if the fridge is installed off-level, first, level the RV as you normally would. Then, place a small carpenter’s level inside the fridge, preferably on the bottom of the food compartment, and see how close it is. Generally, if the fridge is no more than ½ a bubble off, it should be OK, but the more level, the better, really. If the fridge and the RV don’t agree on “level”, you can either have the fridge adjusted in its mounting (sometimes hard to do), or fudge the RVs level indicators to get the fridge level. This will leave the RV slightly off, but usually is not a problem for occupants when moving around inside. The easiest way to do this is to adjust the RV (with jacks or levelling blocks) until the fridge is dead level, and then attach a couple of aftermarket level gauges to the RV that will tell you when you have it right. I mounted mine inside where I can see them both from the driver’s seat. One is above the passenger window, the other right above the inside rear view mirror.
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Hello,
I’m in the market for an RV and have seen some on craigslist for 6000 and under. What should I look for and what questions should I ask? I plan on being full time. I don’t have the funds for a new rig but a fifth wheel is not going to work since I’m in an urban area for now. I’ve seen solar kits that I can buy that would run “everything” so to speak and charge the batteries but I was wondering if I should look into a small wind generator to charge the batteries at night. Thank you, Adrienne
Hi Adrienne
Most motorhomes that you’ll find in the “under $6000” range may require quite a bit of fixing up to be reliable. That’s fine if you can do a lot of the work yourself, and not so fine if you have to pay mechanics and techs to do it. The good news is that there’s a lot a handy person can do to maintain their own RV. A good investment would be a general RV maintenance manual; my favorite has always been the one by Bob Livingston, the RV Repair & Maintenance Manual. You can often find them used for a few bucks. Good, basic info!
Find one you are thinking about buying? First, do a careful visual assessment of it, looking for any obvious problems like water leaks or stains, oil puddles underneath, and be sure to include a good test drive. Make sure it steers, shifts and stops properly. Look at the tires, and under the hood. These are the same things you’d do when buying any motor vehicle. Look inside and make sure that all the appliances work, and that lights and fans work, and the plumbing all does what it should. This part is like evaluating a house you want to buy.
A solar system capable of running everything and charging the batteries is definitely a nice addition, but a decent system will usually run into the $500-$1000 range, so beware of “cheap solutions” or extremely low cost packages. Solar that works is generally a bit spendy. I think a wind generator would not be something that is easy to cart around with you and set up/tear down anytime you move. Plus, it would make you a lot more visible if parked in an urban setting. A small portable generator, like a Honda EU1000 might be a better choice for battery charging and running small AC devices.
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Mark:
My furnace heats nicely for an hour or so then I wake up cold with it blowing cold air. I can turn it off for a while, quite a few minutes, then turn it back on and the cycle repeats. What are the possible problems? I have ordered a high temp cut out switch but I’m not sure that will fix it. Someone said it could be a “sail switch” inside the duct getting dirty and refusing to move as it should. Your thoughts? Thank you, Richard
Hi Rich
Several possibilities come to mind: First, is the 12V power connection to the furnace in good shape? Low power can cause the problem you are seeing. Second, are the electrodes for the igniter in the furnace clean and about 1/8” apart? It may be failing to light reliably. The sail switch is also a possibility. Check to make sure that there is nothing blocking the air intake or exhaust, like a wasp nest, as restrictions to the air flow can also cause problems like you describe. Finally, it may be that the furnace control board is on the way out… If that is the case, I highly recommend purchasing a replacement igniter board made by Dinosaur Electronics. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/. They are a much better board than the OEM one, and you can get them at most any RV parts place. Just ask for a dinosaur board, they will know what you are talking about.
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Hi Mark, when I turn on my hot water a beeping noise comes from my gas tanks. Any suggestions? Thanks, Billie
Hi Billie
That sound is often made by the propane regulator, or if your RV has removable tanks, by the valves in the pigtail hose that connects to the tank(s), and really doesn’t indicate any problems, sometimes it just does that. If it bothers you, you can replace the regulator (they are not expensive) and see if that helps. Sometimes just shutting everything off, disconnecting the tanks and re-connecting them will make it stop. On a rare occasion, a slightly overfilled tank will do that until some propane is drawn off. The sound is common, and normally does not indicate a problem.
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Hi, Mark
We are new to the RV lifestyle. We are going to Mesa, Az. Is there some way to find others to convoy with? Safety in numbers! We own a class C, 30 ft. with a tow car behind. Vickie
Hi Vickie
Probably the best way to find someone who is interested in travelling together is to utilize online RV forums or groups. You might try the Escapees forum at www.rvnetwork.com. It is a friendly group. Rvillage may also be a possibility. www.rvillage.com However, a lot RVers prefer to do their own thing and it really is safe out there, even travelling way off the beaten path. It may be hard to find someone who is going your way, at the same time you are, and who also is interested in convoying. If you are primarily concerned about breakdowns, a good roadside service plane, like Coachnet can give you added peace of mind. http://www.coach-net.com/ .
Do you have a question for Mark? Please submit your question via email to MMW@escapees.com.
Please remember, material will be edited. Because of the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, individual replies will be limited to questions that are chosen for publication.
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